Wednesday, July 29, 2015

Back in Germany.

A total of 3165km in Iceland. Much further than I expected. Plus another 568km on the Faroe Islands.
Once again I was absolutely surprised by what I found on the Faroes, Although completely different to Iceland. In some ways they reminded me of Scotland.

Reykjavik was better than expected.
The first thing I did was visit a trey shop and had my rear tyre professionally repaired. I'd completed over 2177km on my repair but felt now was the time to have it seen to. The information in the repair kit stated no more than 10km and not over 50km/h.
The repair would not have held much longer. And I'd completed several hundred kilometres on gravel/dirt/mud roads. The repairman told me that if a stone had pressed directly on my repair, it could have had bad consequences. Phew!

The campsite was the biggest and best but also the busiest (naturally) it had everything one needed and more. I had decided to stay a couple of nights and maybe get to know the city a little. The campsite was situated next to the swimming pool, this suited me perfectly.

Next day I went for a walk around old Reykjavik. Visited the laundromat for coffee, museum 871 +/- 2, visited same small local markets, met some Vikings fron yorkshire and Iceland, and ended up at the "man cave".
In the man cave, as I was about to head back to the campsite, have dinner & go to bed, I met a great Icelandic couple who joined me and turned it into an awesome evening.
With tales of fishing & working on boats, the hardships & challenges of being a young person on Iceland, relationships etc. not at all what I expected. We talked into the wee small hours but it remained light the whole evening. Much fun & many drinks later, I headed back. Leaving this
amazing city behind.

The next day I headed to the obligatory blue lagoon. Smaller than I expected but relaxing. And exactly what I required after an evening out in Reykjavik. The waters were cloudy but warm, full of minerals and thermal goodness. The saunas were even warmer and perfect for an Icelandic summer's day.
The last few days on Iceland, after Reykjavik were a bit of an anticlimax. I had to travel predominantly on the "1" which did not excite me. But I did get to see the puffins, near Vik, along with more than 24 hours of solid rain. Here I discovered that the floor of my tent was no longer waterproof. And most things became damp. Not too classy in cold conditions.
One of the highlights from the south coast was visiting the Glacier Lagoon. What a totally amazing place. Once again I was blown away.
On my last day's ride in Iceland, i was following the 1 back to Seydisfjördur and my GPS indicated a shortcut (along the 939) which would save me 65km. I decided to take this as both roads were gravel.
After a couple of kilometres I discovered that I had perhaps underestimated the difficulty of my
chosen path. It wasn't 4wd country, but not far from it. The gravel was rough, at times very soft where it had been "repaired", slippery, muddy, loose and went over a 500 metre pass through dense fog.
Every single one of my motorcycling skills were challenged that day.
Later, when people asked me which way I'd ridden, I explained that I'd ridden over the 939 instead of the 1. Most would then take a look at my bike, tyres, the amount of gear that I had, me with disbelief. No way, they wouldn't believe that I'd made it through unscathed.
Sometimes I don't just surprise myself, but others too.

On the trip to the Faroes I met more bikers with tales tall & true. Everyone wanted to share and give/receive advice. It was a real get together. I got off at the Faroes and travelled the next 3 days with a German couple from Bavaria (Martin & Dagmar). Dagmar had broken a bone in her wrist after a tumble and I think they were glad of the company, I know I was. I'd previously met them the day after my puncture. Together we discovered the islands on two bikes (she couldn't ride properly and
was now pillion)

Each day we rode 150-250km. And loved every minute of it. Reaching out of the way places and Tiny villages that seemed to be cut off from the world.
One day, while out riding, we pulled I front of a large (20+) Icelandic & Faroes bikers. I thought this was a cool sight. After a few kilometres, the leader rode up beside me, opened his visor, I thought "oh no" and he invited us for coffee.  When a group of Icelandic/Faroes bikers invite you to coffee, you accept and enjoy their coffee and cake.
The people here are amazingly friendly and open.

After my visit to the islands I had planned to take a ferry to Norway and attempt the FHB-48 again. But by now Melinda needed a service and new tyres. So I decided to head south to visit my mate Michi, get new tyres and service Melinda myself. It's not a difficult thing and I'm learning every day.
I'd also heard from one of the guys who helped with my puncture about a company near Köln called
"alles für'n Arsch" who reupholsters motorcycle seats.   I stayed with Michi a few days, completed said service & tyres. After that I headed back South again to Kassel via Köln and ordered my seat.
I've been here in Kassel for the past week, spending time with Jay, Bomb and the boys. School holidays have begun and we've been having a blast catching up.

Yesterday I rode to Köln and back (588 km) to pick up my seat. I think it's an improvement, I hope so. it certainly gives much more support. I've also decided to invest in a new tent. There is no point in travelling around with a leaky house, I've still almost two months to go and looking out the window I think more rain is on its way.

Well, I think I need a coffee and to say hi to the boys.


Friday, July 10, 2015

Iceland - the north

Truly, I am in awe every single day.
I've spent the past week, or so, travelling across the north of Iceland.
What a totally, amazingly, awesome country.
After travelling through North Iceland, the westfjörds, west Iceland, I now find myself in Reykjavìk.
Aproximately 2350 km so far, phew.

From the first day my abilities were challenged with about 100km of off-road riding.
I've never really learnt to ride enduro, so it was a steep learning curve for me.
But I seem to have pulled it off.  With a couple of small mishaps.
Day one, after an hour or more of gravel road, I got my first puncture.
With help from a couple of German bikers, I managed to repair the tyre and limp 20km to the next campsite. The repair info states no more than 10km and no faster than 50kmh. That would seriously dampen the trip.
But I made it & we all went out for dinner & beers that evening.
Next day, I enquired about having the tyre professionally repaired, the mechanic advised he could do no better than I and my repIr looked good. I had to continue.
I met another couple from Germany & together we travelled the day with no problem.
I enquired with a tyre specialist who agreed that the repair was ok & he wasn't happy to do anything with it.
So I continued, a total of 2177km on the repaired tyre at normal speeds (90kmh)
Arriving in Reykjavìk, I enquired at a 3rd place and they agreed to repair it.
I removed the wheel and when the mechanic took the tyre off he was able to remove my plug easily, guess it was only a matter of time before it came away.

I feel much better now, But can't say that it held me back.
I tackled everything that Iceland threw at me. Dirt, gravel, highway.
I've learnt new riding skills and how to tackle off-road sections.
Although, I did drop Melinda in the middle of a particularly long gravel section.
I decided to stop at an intersection, unsure of the road conditions on the side road.
As I pulled up, the front tyre slid out and down she went.
Luckily I wasn't moving, guess that's why I fitted engine bars etc.   I'd hate to think of the damage without that protection.
My Icelandic journey could have ground to a halt.
As for the damage, some minor scratches to the bars, nothing more.

Since day 2, I've been heading to the swimming pool every day.  Every village & town has one and it seems to be Icelandic custom to go daily. I have totally embraced this and love to relax in the hot tub after a long day's ride. I could get used to this lifestyle.

So, the next few days I shall chill, discover Reykjavìk, relax and plan my return to the ferry in the east - Seydisfjördur.